A “slice” of pizza, cheese ‘n crackers, salad with red wine vinaigrette,
an ice cream sandwich, short ribs, doesn’t sound too out of the ordinary,
right? But what if I told you that
that piece of pizza was as thin as paper and melted in your mouth? Or would you believe me if I told you
the salad was completely frozen?
It all sounds a bit futuristic.
Well, I can promise you I wasn’t on Mars when I tasted all 21 courses from
Chef Achatz and Chef Beran’s menu during my evening at Next. However, this
exquisite dinner was certainly out of this world.
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| Next |
Next is unlike any other restaurant you might have been
to. To begin with Next has done
away with the traditional idea of making a reservation. Instead, much like you would for a
concert or sports event, you purchase tickets and pay in full prior to your
dining experience. Secondly, the restaurant completely changes its menu approximately
every four months. Past menu themes
for the restaurant include Paris in 1906, Chinese Modern, Chicago Steak and
Vegan. This time around Next has time traveled back with its tribute to Trio with
a menu that highlights the period from 2001 to 2004 when a young Achatz worked
at the North Shore restaurant.
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| Left to Right: Paris 1906: Caneton Rouennais a la Presse , Chinese Modern: Pressed Okra and Vegan: White Asparagus |
But before we jump into my interview with the chef let me
give you a bit of context. Before
culinary God Grant Achatz began to build his empire he had a very traditional
entry into the culinary world. At
14 he was washing dishes and flipping eggs at his family’s restaurant in
Michigan. He then went on to study at the
Culinary Institute of America. He has worked
in acclaimed restaurants such as the three star Michelin rated French Laundry
in Yountville, California and Trio in Evanston, Illinois.
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| Grant Achatz the chef and co-owner of Next |
Achatz is the “mad scientist” behind the concept of
futuristic, avant-garde cuisine more closely related to molecular gastronomy,
and I mean that in the most endearing sense. And thus, with the notion that the traditional method of
roasting, boiling and sautéing was “out of date” in 2005 he opened his first
restaurant, Alinea. The restaurant
has no bar, no lobby and seats just 64 guests. Guests are served a small course tasting menu running about
18 courses that can only be described as expertly crafted artwork. In 2010 it
was named the best restaurant in North America and 7th best in the
world, by Restaurant magazine. Alinea is the only restaurant in Chicago to be awarded the
highest rating of three stars from the Michelin Guide for 2014. I had the ultimate pleasure to dine at
Alinea several years ago and will never forget its unique and artistic menu.
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| Alinea: Milk Chocolate, Pate Sucree, Violet, Hazelnut |
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| Alinea: Scallop, Citrus Aroma, Fourteen Textures |
Achatz opened Next in 2011. Next has gained significant attention due to its unique
ticketing format. These tickets
are transferable but not refundable or exchangeable. Next also releases “Same-Day” tickets on their Facebookpage. They make a guarantee that
there will be at least one table available via Facebook everyday they are open.
Their operation also includes two on site bars: The Aviary and The Office, which
is an invite-only speakeasy bar that seats 14.
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| Bocuse d'Or menu, Next |
Before dining at Next, I had the great honor of being able to
ask this celebrated chef a few questions.
A: Your style of cooking has revolutionized the culinary world. And as a
result we've see a lot of copycats. Do you see this artistry like dining
experience becoming more common among the masses?
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| Grant Achatz |
Chef Achatz: I definitely think the style of dining we do at Alinea,
Next and the Aviary is becoming more commonplace. Many restaurants are also
trying to incorporate both emotion and delicious food as part of
the dining experience.
A: The idea of a theme based ever changing menu is a spectacular
concept. What is the collaborative thought process behind your choice of
era/theme for each menu?
CA: We work together to create each menu concept. Everyone has a
voice in deciding what the new menu will be as well as designing what the menu
will look and taste like.
A: Describe what the planning process was like to recreate some of Trios
most iconic dishes.
CA: We looked back into old trio menus and media that we had archived in
order to bring those dishes back to life. As with all menus at Next, we
tested and refined each one to perfect it as part of the menu planning process.
A: Of all the time consuming and labor-intensive aspects to many, if not
all the dishes that are prepared at Next, what's one specific course or food
that's been the fussiest or most frustrating?
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| From left, Grant Achatz, Andrew Graves, sous-chef; Dave Beran, executive chef |
CA: The Paris 1906 menu posed the most philosophical problems: do we
recreate Escoffier's recipes the way he would have made them in 1906? Or should
we recreated them utilizing modern technology? In the end we settled on
using a mix of both the old and new in order to create the best menu possible.
A: Just as there are new trends in trends in the fashion industry,
what's hot right now in the culinary world?
CA: If I knew the new trend I would already be doing it :)
A: So when you're not serving up artfully prepared dishes, what do you
typically cook for yourself at home?
CA: I don't eat too fancy when I am at home. Typically a simple
pasta or a veggie wrap is dinner for me
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| A Tour of Thailand |
A: Do you see more restaurants moving towards this new reservation
system in the future or is this something that may remain in use only for
restaurants of your caliber?
A: What's next for Next?
CA: Currently development for our next three menus is
underway. Details will be released close to the New Year
The journey that you experience when you dine at Next is
completely sensory. You are consuming a meal in such a non-familiar method. You
are experiencing unique textures and delighting in this modern and somewhat
futuristic cuisine. My mom and I
were fortunate enough to be a part of this experience. It was such a memorable
evening. It’s worth every penny and definitely the perfect place for a special
celebration (we were celebrating her birthday). She is now ready to sign up for the coveted “Season Tickets” that like any popular sports team or event are
very difficult to obtain but well worth the investment!
Just for fun here’s a break down of the evening’s 23
courses.
1. Osetra or as we called it “The Pallet Waker-Upper”
This was a fun
dish to begin the meal with.
Caviar, with an avocado and lime pudding finished with a caramelized
sugar.
2. Rock Shrimp
This dish was all about the unique way in which you eat this
course. A vanilla bean was used as
a skewer so that when you bite down on the shrimp you were also getting a bit
of the vanilla as you pulled the shrimp off. There were also lovely hints of cranberry and Meyer
lemon. We overheard one waiter
comparing the difficulty of cracking open one of these rare shrimp to trying to
crack turtle shells, quite the image.
3. Tomato
This was a take on a Caprese salad but with a fun
twist. The large white ball of
buffalo mozzarella was actually a mozzarella balloon filled with tomato water
foam. The best part were the impeccably
ripe and flavorful heirloom tomatoes, so fresh!
4. Crab
This was definitely one of my favorite dishes, not only
because of the presentation but also the concept. The plate was a take on the color wheel. The caveat: each of the 10 small bites
surrounding the ball of encapsulated coconut milk would be terrible if you
mixed them all together. But if
eaten individually and paired with the crab meat and the coconut milk, well
that’s when the magic happens.
Some of my favorite mix-ins included a slice of avocado, a salted cashew,
lime and this cucumber gelle. By
far this was the most creative dish of the evening.
5. Ice Cream Sandwich
And just when I thought things couldn’t get any better we
had the adult version of an ice cream sandwich. Olive oil ice cream was sandwiched in between Parmesan and
pepper shortbread cookies. It was
the perfect savory treat.
6. Black Truffle Explosion
Usually when dining you might not want the word explosion
used to describe the food you’re about to consume. In this case however it’s completely warranted. The black truffle oil was cooked into ravioli
topped with charred romaine and pecorino cheese. Served on a spoon we were instructed to place the entire ravioli
in our mouth. We were told to keep our mouth closed to insure that the truffle
oil only exploded within out mouth.
7. Duck
Chef was inspired to feature lavender in this dish. His inspiration stemmed from a visit to
France when he enjoyed lamb that was butchered earlier that morning. The lamb had been consuming lavender
and the meat had taken on that flowery flavor. A lavender salt lozenge accompanied out course. We were instructed to allow it to
dissolve in our mouths before eating the duck and foie gras.
8. Pizza
This was the most insane dish I had that evening. This tiny piece of pizza was as thin as
paper and instantly dissolved in your mouth. We were provided with tongs to use as our utensils, which
was a dining first for me. This
might be offensive to the chef to compare this artful dish to frozen food but
it literally tasted identical to a bagel bite. My mind was officially blown.
9. Poached Loin of Lamb
While I fully recognize that I might be the only diner that
evening that feels this way I must admit this was the one dish I wasn’t too
fond of. It was lamb served two
ways one hot and one cold. I
believe that my distaste was merely a dislike for the spices and seasonings
used in its preparation.
Alternatively, my mom loved this course.
10. Cheese ‘n Cracker
Imagine a puffed up cracker with warm melted cheddar cheese
inside of it. Perfection! I felt as if I’d died and gone to
heaven when I tasted this. I could
have gone to the kitchen and stolen about ten more of these bad boys.
11. Salad
This wasn’t your traditional wedge or Caesar salad, as if
you’d expect that from Next anyways.
This salad was frozen. The rationale
behind eating ice cubes made of arugula, spinach and romaine hearts? The classic dinner date salad disaster,
little green pieces stuck in your teeth.
But fear not because when frozen your food crisis is averted. And for anyone with the bad habit of
chewing ice cubes this is your dream come true.
12. Raspberry
For any women this dish most likely will have a special
place in your heart. What woman
doesn’t love flowers? Prior to
tasting this course we were told to inhale the smell of the beautiful red rose. We were then instructed to suck the
lemon basil and raspberry flavored tapioca out of the test tube. As my mom put it, “Give it a good
suck”. Aside from the crude
reference she was right. At the end I asked to keep the rose…it’s not everyday
a girl gets flowers.
13. Pushed Foie Gras
This dish was unique because of the technique used to serve
the Foie Gras. The Foie Gras was
initially frozen and then it was shaved into tiny sprinkles and placed atop a
sauterne and pear sorbet. Bet you’ve never heard of Foie Gras served that way
before.
14.Passion Fruit-Mustard
Okay, this palette cleanser was a true “assault” on my taste
buds. It was the oddest food
pairing. Both flavors were
fighting for dominance on my tongue, which is strange to imagine, but exactly
what happened. The sweet and tanginess
of the passion fruit was in total opposition to the pungent mustard. Needless to say my palette was wide
awake.
15. Smoked Figs
For a fig nut like myself this dish was right up my
alley. Placed over the figs was an
ultra thin pancetta doughnut of sorts.
Endive and farro accompanied the figs. They were flavored with a coffee vinaigrette. This is going to sound totally nuts,
but at this point nothing should really shock you, but when you tasted all of
these ingredients together I felt as if I was having the world’s best
hot dog. I could be totally off
base with what the chef was going for but that’s what I tasted and frankly (no
pun intended) I was so satisfied.
16. Lobster
What could be more decadent than lobster bisque? Well this dish was a play on that
classic soup with an emphasis on aromatics. The lobster was served in another foam, which is a signature
style that Chef Achatz is fond of using alongside wild mushrooms. Numerous sprigs of rosemary surrounded
the soup bowl. When the dish was served
our waiter poured boiling water over the rosemary, which heightened the herb’s
scent. The whole time we were
eating we were inhaling the aromatic rosemary vapor. It was amazing!
17. Burnt Pineapple
This was another fun “hands free” course. The skewer contained charred pineapple,
smoked salmon seasoned with togarashi, Japanese chili pepper. It was a perfect combination of savory
and sweet.
18. Short Rib
I’m a serious short rib fan and virtually anything that has
mashed potatoes as a side is an A plus in my book. The best part about this dish was that it was seasoned with sarsaparilla
(root beer) flavors, YUM! The
mashed potatoes were cloud like and flavored with a touch of vanilla. This flavor combination is one example of
how Alinea and Next hit home runs when it comes to this type of mixology.
19. Transparency of Manchego
Manchego cheese when it’s cooked at high temperatures
becomes transparent and very flavorful.
This was a rendition of a Mediterranean cheese plate with white
anchovies, olives, croutons and bell peppers.
20. Huckleberry Soda
This was our first desert course and it was a fun one to
start with. There were five gels
on our plate. We were told to sip some of the huckleberry soda before individually
tasting each one. The flavors
included hazelnut, chocolate, crème, fennel and thyme. My favorite was the hazelnut and it was
by far the most intense flavor.
21. Maragda Chocolate at 94 Degrees
Last and certainly not least this dish was a wonderful finale
to an extraordinary dinner. The
chocolate was at the exact temperature to be soft but not completely
melted. Underneath it was sort of
a flax seed pistachio brittle that was beer flavored. And on the spoon, yeast ice cream. Yes that’s right.
But with the beer-flavored brittle you couldn’t have a better pairing.
Wow, that was a long post. Thanks for sticking with me!
Until next time, cheers!
A
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